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The Journal Times

A F Vandevorst FW15/16 | Fashion Show | Paris Fashion Week

There were no runways nor podiums for photographers but four salons where walls and chandeliers were dressed in plastic sheetings. We were handed masks and onesies to protect paint from tainting our accoutrement. Half an hour to go and they are still painting their set? So I thought but I was in for a surprise…

As the rock n roll live band blasted out Velvet Underground’s White Light White Heat, Belgian artist Joris Van de Moortel lashed out white paint with an industrial spray gun across the audience and models who were starting the show from the main salon. The models then installed themselves in two salons like mannequins displayed in the windows of Printemps, Harrods and Saks for all to scrutinise and marvel at intimate proximity.

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The Peruvian Andes air had wooed the minds of An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx during their travel to this Inca part of the world. I can definitely see where the plumage, ruff, tassels, laces, layers, fringes and solidified windswept looks come from.

Their creation seems reactionary and impulsive with a twist of smart tailoring presenting some allure of sophistication. The vibrant colours of the Andes’ traditional dresses and ponchos were non-existent. Instead they had been saturated down to monochrome, staple colours in a city dweller’s wardrobe.

The collection also oozes a sense of folklore with condors weaved into the picture. Hence the elaborate headgears and pleasingly plump knits and fur drapes. Finally, grounding the sooty looks were laced up killer heel boots. Attitude is definitely needed to wear A F Vandevorst FW15/16.