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The Journal Times

Busardi AW15/16 | Fashion Show | Paris Haute Couture Week

I cannot help but to akin Busardi’s AW15/16 “Queen of the Night” fashion show to the Maleficent movie except that fear and darkness prevails at the end rather than light and love.

The story of the Epiphyllum Oxypetalum (Queen of the Night), a nocturnal bloom native to the Gila River in Arizona is told creatively in the form of colours, feathers and Busardi’s signature embroidery and Guipure lace appliqué. Capes are also a trademark which you cannot miss at Busardi.

As the storm calms down by the embroidered thorn tulle gowns, shades of pink, peach beige and sky blue embroidered tulle gowns emerged for a short while for the Queen’s full bloom.

Dark falls again with heavier opulent fabric gowns and deeper colours. The Queen in a fully bloomed Ephiphyllum lace appliqué Thai silk gown allows her dark side to conquer, re-emerge rapturous in her exquisitely embroidered Chantilly lace gown with a long organza tail and a glorious neck wing of black rooster feathers with a hint of green.

The show opens with an Arizonian storm depicting fear by a black brocade cape and dress decorated with feathers and the Guipure lace appliqué. The intrusive night follows with dark purple, electric and navy blues cocktail dresses rich in feathers and brocade, cloqué and duchess satin.

The green embroidered lace cocktail dress mimicks the aquatic weeds across the river. The deep autumn reds and blues along with turquoise dresses reflects the river with a ripple effect by way of chiffon and floral printed jacquards.

The unique custom made feather pieces are created by Nora Rieser, an up and coming Austrian designer. They are made from goose and rooster feathers and are labour intensive. The feathers are all individually cut, draped and shaped by hand before being sewn onto tailor made calf leather bases. This is the first time Rieser’s work is showcased in the Paris Haute Couture Week for AW15/16 in collaboration with Busardi. Check her out at www.norarieser.com